“GINA has brought great polish to my show with the shoes they produced exclusively for me. I went to the factory and saw the shoes being made, which was an amazing and insightful experience, during which we discussed suitable fabrics and textures. It felt like a true collaboration, working incredibly closely on developing all aspects, and I'm so happy with the results.”
Photo by Lucy Alex Mac for Wool and the Gang
The no-frills utilitarianism of workers’ uniforms meets the flamboyantly decorative impulse of the Arts and Crafts movement in Matty Bovan’s seventh collection. The wipe-clean colours of the hospital ward clash with the density and intensity of William Morris’s palette as standard-issue garments are elevated beyond their workaday origins to become something other.
This collection sees the first original bag designed by Matty, shaped like a kite in the colours of the operating theatre. Shoes by GINA for Matty Bovan include sensible flats that recall those worn by hospital porters with a practical Velcro strap; wedges, heels and boots; and trainers in terry towelling which recalls the fluffy domestic comfort of slippers. The headwear by Stephen Jones for Matty Bovan consists of large lenses as flat as iPads worn across the face, distorting the features and rendering them almost unreal. The wide-framed, metallic-lensed acetate glasses are by Cutler & Gross and the ski socks are by Falke.
As always there is a hint of some sci-fi future, the hope and fear of a coming utopia/dystopia. There are bomber jackets (because, as the designer notes, they are a wardrobe staple in sci-fi films), cut wide and cropped high on the waist, their too-long sleeves pulled up and puffed up, connecting across time with the Victorian silhouettes elsewhere in the collection.
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